Adventurous Enoshima Island one day trip - Japan
Date: 11 February 2024
Enoshima
Island, a hidden gem located off the coast of Tokyo, beckons travelers with its
enchanting beauty and captivating allure. During my recent expedition, I found
myself immersed in the wonders of this island, unsure of what to expect but
driven by an insatiable curiosity.
Our
journey began in the charming town of Fujisawa, a perfect starting point for
our full-day exploration of Enoshima Island. Eager to embark on this adventure,
we eagerly boarded a bus from Fujisawa station and little did we know that this
would be the prelude to an incredible experience.
As
the bus meandered along the scenic route, we marveled at the breathtaking
landscape before us. And when we finally arrived at Enoshima Aquarium, we
couldn't help but feel a tinge of regret for not having enough time to fully
explore its wonders. Nonetheless, we vowed to return and explore every corner
of this aquatic marvel on our next visit.
As
we disembarked from the bus, we were greeted by an awe-inspiring sight - the
expansive Sea of Japan stretching out majestically before us. The sound of the
crashing waves and the sight of surfers dancing atop them added to the vibrant
energy in the air. The entire area was meticulously maintained, a testament to
the Japanese commitment to perfection. And to our delight, the sun peeked
through the winter clouds, casting a warm glow upon our surroundings.
Unable to resist the allure of the beach, we spent a blissful hour soaking up the beauty and serenity that surrounded us. The powdery sand enveloped our toes, the salty breeze kissed our cheeks, and the rhythmic crashing of the waves provided a soothing soundtrack to our idyllic escape. This was just the beginning of a day filled with surprises and breathtaking moments.
Eventually,
we tore ourselves away from the captivating beach and embarked on the short
walk towards Enoshima Island. The Enoshima Bentan bridge, an architectural marvel
in its own right, connected the mainland to this island paradise. With each
step along the kilometer-long bridge, our excitement grew, fueled by the
promise of the unknown that awaited us.
Our journey led us to the foot of the shrine, where we took a moment to savor a delicious breakfast of baked potato and sweet potato. The flavors exploded in our mouths, reinvigorating us for the adventures that lay ahead. Little did we know that our tastebuds were just the first to be tantalized on this incredible journey.
As we ascended the steps towards the shrine, a mesmerizing sight unfolded before our eyes. The architectural grandeur and intricate details of the shrine perfectly blended with the natural beauty that enveloped it. It was here that we came to understand the distinction between shrines and temples in Japan – a revelation that added a new layer of appreciation to our visit. A shrine is for Shintoism and a temple is for Buddhist.
Armed
with a map of Enoshima Shrine, we were taken aback by the sheer magnitude of
shrines and tourist attractions scattered across the island. Each site carried
its own rich history, fascinating stories, and unparalleled charm. The Dragon
Cave, Sea Candle observation tower, Samuel Cocking Garden, and the Enoshima
Iwaya Caves were just a few of the many treasures waiting to be discovered.
One of the most unforgettable moments was witnessing the breathtaking view of Mount Fuji from the beach. Towering majestically in the distance, its snow-capped peak seemed to reach out and touch the heavens. The serenity of this scene left us speechless, etching a permanent memory in our hearts.
Throughout
the day, we delved into every nook and cranny of Enoshima Shrine, uncovering
hidden secrets and basking in the tranquility that enveloped the island. The
history-rich ambiance, panoramic vistas, and serene atmosphere offered an
experience like no other. Each step we took on this enchanting island seemed to
unlock a new chapter in its captivating story.
As the sun began its descent, signaling the end of a remarkable day, we found ourselves reflecting on the unexpected adventures and spellbinding moments Enoshima Island had gifted us. It had exceeded our wildest expectations, igniting an insatiable desire to return and delve deeper into the secrets of this extraordinary place.
Enoshima Island, with its harmonious blend of natural beauty, cultural significance, and spiritual resonance, proved to be a journey that touched our souls in ways we never imagined. If your travels ever take you to Japan, do not miss the opportunity to embark on your own Enoshima adventure. It is a voyage that will indelibly engrave itself in your travel memories, beckoning you to return time and time again.
Quick
reference:
There are four major shrines here and few sightseeing spots.
Name of the shrines:
· Hetsumiya
· Nakatsumiya
· Okutsumiya
· and one Buddhist temple called “Enoshima Daishi”
Main attractions – Enoshima Shrine
· Zuishin-mon Gate
- · Hōanden Hall
- · The Bounding Tree (Musubi no Ki)
- · Zeniarai Dragon King (Zeniarai Hakuryūō)
- · Dragon’s Love Bell
- · Dragon Palace
- · Enoshima Iwaya Caves
- · Chigogafuchi Abyss
Special delicacy of Enoshima
Shirasudon (shirasu donburi)
Shirasu
is the general term for young, white fish that measure only about a centimeter.
They are caught in large numbers in Sagami Bay around Enoshima and enjoyed at
local restaurants, where they are most popularly served raw or cooked over
white rice as donburi.
The photo to the left shows a variety of the dish where shirasu is served with
salmon roe (ikura).
Happy touring
Sathyamurthy
Vamanan
More details are given below and may take 10 minutes to read.
courtesy - The Complete Guide to Enoshima Shrine 2024 (visitjapan-vegetarian.com)
(we took a print out of this article, prior to our travel)
____________________________________________________________________________
Enoshima Shrine’s Crest
When you stroll around Enoshima, this crest – three black
triangles surrounded by waves – can be seen everywhere on the island. It is the
crest of the Enoshima Shrine, the Three Scales Facing the Waves (向い波の中の三つの鱗).
If you are a big samurai fan, you might recognize the three triangles as the Hōjō clan’s family crest. And you are right!
Enoshima’s shrine crest was built on the family crest of the Hōjō clan by adding the wavy patterns around the triangles, which represent the three scales that Hōjō Tokimasa (北条時政) received from Benzaiten.
Tokimasa, born in 1138, had a strong faith in Enoshima Benzaiten. As the head of the clan, he shut himself in the Enoshima Iwaya Caves for 35 days and prayed sincerely to Benzaiten for the prosperity of his clan.
On the night of completing the ritual, a beautiful woman appeared and said to him: “Your last life was a revered monk. Due to your self-sacrifice and good deeds, your offspring shall be the leader of Japan”. The woman then transformed into a serpent and disappeared into the sea, leaving three scales behind.
Realizing it was Benzaiten whom he met, Tokimasa used the shape of the three scales as the Hōjō clan’s crest.
Tokimasa’s daughter Hōjō Masako (北条政子) later married Minamoto no Yoritomo (源頼朝), the founder and the first shōgun of the Kamakura shōgunate.
Zuishin-mon Gate (瑞心門)
The magnificent gate beyond the red torii gate is called Zuishin-mon (Young Heart Gate). The gate was constructed to imitate the dragon king’s Ryūgū Castle. Hoping the pilgrims visit the shrine with a heart as pure as children, the gate was named Zuishin.
Paintings, such as lions and peonies, can be seen on the walls and the ceiling of the gate. The lions are acting as guardians for the gods that are enshrined here. At the same time, they will chase away the bad luck attached to the pilgrims.
Moreover, remember to check out the statue of Benzaiten and the 15
children that serve her at the gate!
Hetsumiya (辺津宮)
Close to the entrance of Enoshima, Hetsumiya Shrine is also known as Shimo no Miya (下の宮) (The Lower Shrine) because of its geographical location. The goddess that is enshrined here is the youngest sister, Tagitsuhime no Mikoto (田寸津比売命), a goddess of water.
The shrine was established in 1206 to pray for the prosperity of
the Kamakura shōgunate by the third shōgun, Minamoto no Sanetomo (源実朝). The current buildings were renovated in 1976.
Remember to stroke the wooden hammer (打ち出の小槌) in front of the worship hall three times while making a wish in your head. It is said that by doing so, your wish will come true!
Tips:
☛ Apply at the shrine’s office to
worship Tagitsuhime no Mikoto inside the worship hall. But do expect there to
be a queue.
☛ Put some coins into the
interestingly-shaped donation box in front of the worship hall. It is designed
to give you some sounds when coins are dropped!
Cogon Grass Ring (Chigaya no Wa, 茅の輪)
At the right of the worship hall, the Cogon Grass Ring is placed.
Going through the ring is a type of purification ritual. So, make sure you walk
through the ring before you pray to Tagitsuhime no Mikoto.
The cogon grass ring can also help you chase away the bad luck you
might be carrying.
Hōanden Hall (奉安殿)
In the octagon-shaped Hōanden Hall at the left of Hetsumiya, the
Eight-arm Benzaiten that Minamoto no Yoritomo offered is enshrined. Together
with another Benzaiten statue, the Myōon Benzaiten (妙音弁財天)
in the photo, the two statues together are known as one of Japan’s Three Great
Benzaiten.
Hōanden’s Opening Hours and Admission Fee
- The
worship hall is open from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm.
- The
admission fee is
- 200
yen for adults
- 100
yen for junior and senior high school students
- 50
yen for elementary school students
The Bounding Tree (Musubi no Ki, むすびの樹)
Next to Hōanden, a gigantic ginkgo tree is treated as an object of
worship (already logged). Because the trunk split into two shares the same
root, it resonates with the idea of marriage.
It is thus a popular spot to pray for a good life partner. The red
Musubi-ema wooden plaques are hung by pilgrims seeking the tree’s help.
Zeniarai Dragon King (Zeniarai Hakuryūō, 銭洗白龍王)
Close to Hetsumiya, there is also a pond with a white dragon statue. The pond is called Zeniarai Pond (銭洗池), where pilgrims wash their money/coins. The white dragon king that looks after the pond is thus called Zeniarai.
It is said that if you wash your money here, more money will come
your way. Different from “money laundry”, we trust that the money the dragon
god might bring you is clean (´▽｀*).
Nakatsumiya (中津宮)
Nakatsumiya is located further up from Hetsumiya, around a 5-minute walk/hike away.
The shrine was erected by Jigaku Daishi (慈覚大師)
in 853 and renovated in 1996. The revered monk also founded Mt. Hiei’s Enryaku-ji Temple in Kyoto/Shiga Prefecture.
Nakatsumiya is also called Kami no Miya (上の宮)
because it is situated further up Hetsumiya. It enshrines Ichikishimahime no
Mikoto (市寸島比賣命), the second sister among the
three siblings.
If you want to be more good-looking, worship her as sincerely as possible. You can also purchase one of the beauty charms from the shrine’s office.
Nakatsumiya has been a shrine visited by many famous actors and
actresses in the Edo period (1603 – 1867). The pair of stone lanterns on
Nakatsumiya’s were offered by the Edo Kabuki Theaters, Ichimura-za (市村座) and Nakamura-za (中村座)
in 1785. The handprints of a few famous Kabuki actors from the Edo period are
displayed at the side of the approach.
Tips:
☛ Remember to stop by the
observation deck in Nakatsumiya Square (中津宮広場).
The sea view from there is superb!
☛ From late winter to early spring,
the plum and cherry blossoms will bloom along Nakatsumiya’s approach.
Close to Nakatsumiya, you can experience drawing a water fortune
slip. After paying 100 yen, you will be given a blank slip. While it might be
confusing initially, your fortune will show up after you dip it into the water
fountain (水琴窟) that has the water out of a
dragon’s mouth!
If you are interested, the garden where the water fountain is located
is open from 9 am to 4 pm.
Okutsumiya (奥津宮)
In addition to the Eight-arm Benzaiten, Minamoto no Yoritomo (源頼朝) the stone torii gate of Okutsumiya was offered in 1182.
The goddess Tagiribime no Mikoto (多紀理比賣命)
is the eldest sister among her siblings and is enshrined here. Pilgrims come to
her to ensure safe sailing.
In the past, seawater filled the Enoshima Iwaya Caves, which
enshrined the object of worship of the Enoshima Shrine. So, from April to
October, the object of worship was temporarily relocated to Okutsumiya. This is
why Okutsumiya was referred to as Hongū (本宮)
until the Edo period.
On the ceiling of Haiden Hall (拝殿), there is a turtle that stares at everyone. The turtle is called Happōnirami no kame (八方睨みの亀) because it seems to be keeping an eye on all directions. So, no matter where you look at the turtle, it appears to be staring at you!
The turtle painting was painted by Sakai Hōitsu (酒井抱一) in 1803. In 1994, a replica was made so the original painting
could be stored in the shrine’s office.
In fact, in Okutsumiya’s precinct, there are a couple more turtle
statues. So, if you have time, how about hunting all of them down?
From the Haiden Hall, you can see the Honden Hall (本殿), where the goddess is enshrined.
Dragon Palace (龍宮)
Next to Okutsumiya is another worship hall with a spectacular
dragon statue placed above.
Established in 1993, the Wadatsumi no Miya (龍宮)
is where Wadatsumi Daijin (龍宮大神)
is enshrined. It is believed that the dragon god has been living here since
Enoshima was formed.
It is said that because the shrine is located directly above the
Enoshima Iwaya Caves, strong energy surrounds the shrine.
Dragon’s Love Bell (龍恋の鐘)
Hiking further up the staircases at the left of the end of the road from Okutsumiya, the Dragon’s Love Bell is placed above Enoshima Cave 2 at one of the best spots to adore Sagami Bay (相模湾). If you come with your partner, how about following suit and ringing the love bell to enhance your love for each other?
The Japanese are usually polite and don’t like to trouble others. So, a camera stand was set up in front of the bell for couples to get a selfie without asking a favor of strangers.
At the back of the love bell, there are thousands of padlocks. The padlock is like a wedding ring. After ringing the bell, couples will lock the padlock together while vowing eternal love to each other. This is why one of the scenes of the Japanese movie, The Girl in the Sun (陽だまりの彼女), released in 2013, was taken here.
This part of Enoshima is simply too romantic!
Important: Please only lock the padlock on the metal fence. Some people hung it on a nearby tree, which might break the branch with the padlock falling to the ground.
What Does Dragon Have to Do with Romantic Relationships?
According to the legend of Enoshima (refer to our Enoshima article for more details), the
dragon in Sagami Bay in the 6th century fell in love with Benzaiten. The power
of love transformed the dragon into a guardian god.
Enoshima Daishi
The only Buddhist temple at Enoshima Shrine. Must see.
The entrance to Saifuku-ji is accessible from Oiwaya Michi path, located just at the exit of Samuel Cocking Botanical Garden. Two impressive red statues of Nio guardians welcome visitors. The Nio are deities considered as protectors of Buddha and Buddhism. Their aggressive and wrathful look comes as a contrast with Buddhism's pacifist reputation. On a closer look, the Nio on the right hand opens the mouth, which symbolizes the beginning of the universe, in other words, the apparition of life. The opposite Nio tightly closes his mouth, in a symbolization of the end of the universe, that is to say death.
Visitors should not let those ferocious guardians impress them and feel free to come in the sacred enclosure. Continuing downwards, the main building Hondo is open to visit. Numerous black and white lanterns 🏮 hide its ceiling, and dozens of small Doji statues are lined up along the dark walls, giving the room a unique, totally mystical atmosphere.
As a matter of fact, Enoshima Daishi temple’s main attraction is to be discovered beside the praying altar. Hidden in the dark room, Japan’s tallest indoor Fudo Myoo statue stands. Initially painted in red, the 6 meters high sculpture is now covered by a thin layer of sooth, that makes it even more impressive.
Enoshima Iwaya Caves (江の島岩屋)
After you have your fill at Dragon’s Love Bell, head back to Okutsumiya. From there, this time, follow the steep staircases down to Enoshima Iwaya Caves and Chigogafuchi Abyss.
The Enoshima Iwaya Caves consist of two stone chambers and are said to be the origin of the Enoshima Shrine. The cave became a spiritual spot after Ennogyōsha (役の行者), the founder of Shugendō and Mt. Yoshino in Nara, meditated in the cave in 700.
After Ennogyōsha, many revered monks and famous Japanese leaders also prayed and/or meditated here. Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師), who founded Kōyasan (高野山), one of the Three Holiest Mountains in Japan, and Taichō (泰澄), who founded Mt. Haku (白山) in Ishikawa Prefecture are two good examples of the revered monks who were once trained in the cave.
In fact, Kinkizan Yogan-ji Temple that Enoshima Shrine was
separated from was established by Kōbō Daishi in 814 after he meditated in the
cave!
The Formation of Enoshima Iwaya Caves
It was determined that the caves were formed due to tidal erosion. The caves were then uplifted by repeated earthquakes and became the Enoshima Iwaya Caves that we can explore nowadays.
How to Get to Enoshima Iwaya Caves
There are three ways that you can get to Enoshima Iwaya Caves.
- On
foot. From the entrance of Enoshima, it will take around 30 – 40 minutes.
- Take
the boat, Benten-maru (べんてん丸),
from the foot of Bentenbashi Bridge. The cost is
- 400
yen for junior high school students and above
- 200
yen for children from the age of 6
- By
taking the escalator and walking down the stairs
Entering Enoshima Iwaya Caves
Iwaya Bridge (岩屋橋)
with red guard rails is the only way to get to the caves’ entrance. The
magnificent ocean view from the bridge will most likely slow down your steps.
If you visit Enoshima in summer, you will soon stop sweating as soon as you enter the caves. Because of the low temperature, some might even need a light jacket.
In Cave 1, the staff will give you a free candle to make the exploration more adventurous.
Walking inside the Enoshima Kawaya Caves is similar to exploring a
limestone cave. As you proceed further, the height of the cave will get lower,
with the width becoming narrower.
Inside the caves, Ukiyo-e Enoshima paintings and items related to
the island’s dragon legend are exhibited throughout.
Cave 1 is further divided into two sides. At the far back of the right side is the birthplace of Enoshima Shrine, which was the reason Emperor Kinmei (欽明天皇) ordered Enoshima Shrine to be built.
Following through the left passageway, you will get to the entrance that is said to be connected with the Narusawa Ice Cave (鳴沢氷穴), close to the Saiko Lake in Mt. Fuji!
As Cave 1 and Cave 2 aren’t connected, you will need to come out of Cave 1 to get to Cave 2. The bridge to Cave 2 is built along with the Chigogafuchi Abyss,
Following the staircases down the cave, a roaring sound seems to be coming out from the end of the cave. Although you don’t get a candle in Cave 2, a dragon lighting show will be on during your visit!
Chigogafuchi Abyss (稚児ヶ淵)
From the entrance/exit of Cave 2, there is a path down to Chigogafuchi Abyss. On a sunny day, you can see Mt. Fuji on the other side of the sea!
At the end of the abyss is where you can board the pleasure boat,
Benten-maru, to get back to the entrance of the island, so you don’t need to
hike all the way back up.
Chigogafuchi Abyss was created by the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake (関東大震災). It is now a popular fishing spot on Enoshima. At sunset, it is also where many photographers gather for some breathtaking photos.
Why is the Abyss Named Chigogafuchi?
Once upon a time, a monk from Kenchō-ji Temple (建長寺) was on a pilgrimage trip to Enoshima. On the way back, he encountered and fell in love with a teenager from Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū (鶴岡八幡宮) that was trained to take part in the shrine’s festive procession. The monk tracked down the teenager and expressed his feeling. This has made the teenager worried and stressed.
In the end, the teenager jumped off the cliff here, and the monk
followed and jumped off as well.
Tips:
1.
Since it is a hilly terrain, wear loose dress and proper gear for
walking
2.
There are many eateries on the way, hence do not carry too many
eatables
3.
Toilets are aplenty and water is available throughout through
vending machines
4.
Take the Enoshima map at the entrance, which will be very helpful
5.
Start your day, as early as 8 AM, so that you cover the entire
topography, and do not miss the caves.
6.
Carry a good camera or mobile so that you can capture the beauty
of Enoshima
7.
Weekends are fully crowded, but lively
8.
If you buy the tickets and passes in advance, you save a lot
9. Add Enoshima aquarium also in your itinerary.
Sathyamurthy Vamanan
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